Questions buyers actually ask

Any used vehicle I can inspect on site: cars, SUVs, pickup trucks, and vans, across Japanese, European, Korean, and other makes. I also inspect larger vehicles, including retired shuttle buses and box trucks. I can assess EV battery health with a professional scan tool. I do not inspect Teslas.

I am based in Burnaby and work across Greater Vancouver. The places I go most often are Vancouver, Burnaby, Surrey, Richmond, the North Shore, the Tri-Cities, Langley, and Delta, plus nearby spots such as New Westminster and White Rock. The rate is based on distance, so a farther location costs more. Ask for a quote.

No. Text me the vehicle, the address, and the seller's name and number. I confirm with them and inspect where the car sits. If you are there, you can read the report before I leave. If you cannot make it, I email it within 15 minutes of finishing.

Most inspections take about 50 to 60 minutes, including photos, an OBD scan, and a road test when the seller allows it.

Often, if you text in the morning and the seller is available. Evenings and weekends are normal. Text or call to check the day's openings rather than assuming a slot.

Yes, if the seller will let me drive it. If they will not, I mark the road-test section as not completed and say so in the report. I will not pass a car I did not drive.

Both. I inspect on dealer lots and on driveways. A dealer lot inspection is not a substitute for their own 'safety' or reconditioning sheet — I work for you, not the store.

A $50 e-transfer deposit holds the appointment. It is refundable if you cancel at least 6 hours ahead. Ask for a quote — the fee depends on the vehicle and the location. Pre-purchase inspections start at $180 CAD + GST. Payment is by e-transfer.

The main service is a pre-purchase inspection, from $180 + GST. I also offer a buying consultation for $80, help finding a car for $100, and price negotiation at 20% of the price difference after tax, and only after an inspection. All prices are before 5% GST.

Yes. I measure the paint thickness on each panel with a gauge. If a panel has been repainted, I check the quality of the repair.

I read fault codes and live data. I look for readings that are off. No warning light and no codes does not mean the car is running right.

You get a written condition report. I tell you whether I think the car is worth buying: proceed, proceed with negotiation, or failed inspection. It is not a warranty and not a safety certificate.

I inspect hybrids and electric vehicles. I do not inspect Teslas. The checklist covers high-voltage cables, the ready state, inverter, coolant, charge port and cable, the battery shield, battery health from the scan tool, regenerative braking, and drive-motor noise.

This is a ground-level inspection. There is no lift, no teardown, and no compression test unless we arrange something extra. Undercarriage notes are from what is visible without a hoist. Latent defects can still appear after you buy.